Follow My Adventures Hiking's, Wildcamping And Wild Food Recipes
Scandinavië
I am Survival and bushcraft instructor.
Eccentricity
"You're nuts."
"You're eccentric."
"You have mental problems."
I hear this often, but they just don't understand.
I'm an adventure photographer that likes to push the limits, do 'crazy' things, and try & learn from it all.
Hiking far, fast, and ultralight in remote areas, packrafting rivers and creeks, sleeping outside in all conditions, climbing waterfall ice and frozen gullies, and learning about gear and techniques are where my interests lie.
Let's go big, let's go far, let's go fast, but keep it simple and don't bring too much stuff.
At the same time, I like to play it as safe as possible.
However, speed is your friend in the danger zone, so speed is safety and safety is what gets you back home again.
Risk = Probability x Exposure, whereas Probability is an inverse measure of experience and skill, Exposure is in regards to position or conditions and amount of time exposed to them.
'My life is better than your vacation'
Do not live for the weekend.
Do not live for your retirement.
Live for everyday, every moment.
Find something you love to do and do it everyday and for the rest of your life, because you do not get old until you stop doing what you love to do.
The closer you come to dying, the more alive you feel, because without risk, there is no adventure.
Set the line. Then push it. Learn, get better, & grow.
Live simply. Adapt. Learn. Move on. Have fun. Survive.
Then repeat, because life is not about finding yourself; life is about creating yourself.
I've always liked the time before dawn because there is no one around to remind me who I'm supposed to be, so it's easier to remember who I am.
I live my life as to not regret a single moment, because I never want to say, "I wish I would have..."
The last check you write should be for your own funeral and it should bounce.
Stay sane. Sleep outside.
Oh yeah, and remember to pay it forward. Contact: bushmanswildhiking@gmail.com
I’ve been using the MSR Dragonfly stove for all of my tours on a near daily basis to cook meals, boil water for hot drinks, or for cleaning/bathing. It’s the flagship model of the MSR Stove brand geared for travelers who would like to have a stove element that can burn different types of fuel and have flexibility on how they cook their food.
Introduced in 1998 the MSR Dragonfly took cues from it’s older well known brother the XGK, meant for high altitude mountaineering purposes, and the Whisperlite, a no fuss basic stove meant to heat whatever you wanted to throw at it in a fairly short time. Constructed of a combination of aluminum, copper and steel weighing 395grams the MSR Dragonfly unpacks nicely by means of 3 folding feet, and a flexible fuel injection line which handily clips to the side of the stove when not in use. Setting it up is simple, flipping over the hinged fuel cup and connecting it to aMSR Fual bottle which are sold separately which are offered in varying sizes. I use 2591ml fuel bottles which last me 1-2 weeks a piece, depending on the frequency of use, the altitude of operation, and the type of fuel that is being burned.
The MSR Dragonfly has the capability of burning White Gas, a highly volatile clear fluid known as Naptha and unleaded gas through one jet, and Kerosene and Diesel fuel through another jet which is included and easily replaced on the stove itself. This allows the traveler to be sure they will be anywhere in the world and be able to get a hot meal into their bodies at the end of a day without much issue. MSR lists the following boil times for each different fuel as follows:
MSR Dragonfly Specifications
White Gas
Kerosene
Diesel
Burn time per 600ml of Fuel
126 minutes
153 minutes
136 minutes
Boil Time – 1 liter
3.5 minutes
3.9 minutes
3.5 minutes
Water boiled per 100ml Fuel
5.3 liters
5.7 liters
5.7 liters
(Unleaded fuel is not listed on here as the quality can be variable – It’s within the range of all 3 fuels)
While White Gas is a much cleaner and efficient fuel, it comes at a premium cost, and sometimes difficult to find when out on the road. Worse, when it is found it comes in jugs of 4 litres or more, way more than what could be needed forcing the user to leave some behind as waste. Unleaded gas for automotive purposes, while not as efficient as white gas doesn’t burn as cleanly due to the additives and has a tendency to tar up the bottom of your pots but works all the same and cost 1/7 of the pric. Kerosene can regularly be found on dusty shelves in most towns and has a tendency to smoke and emit a terrible smell when cooking, sure to keep the bugs, and any hungry neighbours nearby. Diesel fuel, being the least efficient creates a sticky mess that tends to jam up the fuel filers, and jets quite quickly as well offering the same bad smells and black smoke as Kerosene. For the purpose of this review I will focus on Unleaded Gas or White Gas, as it is the most commonly available worldwide.
Closeup of MSR Dragonfly Pump assembly with Fuel Output area in Grey, the top pump, and the right sided pressure release valve
Usage
You’ll want to pressurize your fuel bottle with 20 pumps before using the stove for the first time on a new fuel bottle, and regularly adding 10-20 pumps every few times you use the stove to maintain pressure before connecting it to the unit. It’s easy to connect the fuel bottle to the fuel line, by wiping a bit of oil (or just use saliva) on the outside of the brass fuel fitting and inserting it into the pumps hole, which is sealed from leaks by a rubber o-ring. The flame adjustment valve on the stove flips out to protect hands from getting burnt and should be twisted all the way clockwise until it can’t move further. Next one simply has to twist the red valve on the fuel pump a few turns before turning the earlier closed fuel adjustment handle open a quarter turn so that the fuel pump cup fills with a small amount of fuel. I generally let it fill for 2-3 seconds before closing the valve and lighting the fuel with a lighter. The stove needs to be primed before usage, and this operation emits a rather high orange flame while the rest of the stove achieves optimal temperature for usage before dying down. If you are quick enough you can open the fuel adjustment valve slowly to start a high temperature blue flame, or simply relight the stove if the priming flame has disappeared. Once its started back up slowly open the flame adjustment valve a few turns and plus your ears, as this stove gets loud, way louder than any of MSR’s other offerings. If you are looking to do some stealth camping, it might not be a good idea to fire this thing up if you wish to not be noticed!
Comparison of dB levels for varios activties
MSR includes with the Dragonfly a sheet of aluminum that is meant to wrap around the stove to protect it from wind, increasing its efficiency. You’ll find that water boils much faster with this in place, but sometimes has the potential to come undone and blow away. I’ve solved this issue by using a large paperclip to connect both ends together to achieve a windscreen.
One of the features that sets the Dragonfly apart from MSR’s other offerings is the ability to adjust the flame, for those who wish to simmer throughout the cooking process as opposed to precariously balancing the pot or pan away from the flame to avoid over heating and burning. I tend to find that having it at full blast is useful for boiling water and nothing else and generally find myself in the 10-40% range when preparing one pot meals.
MSR DragonFly Expedition Service Kit
MSR Dragonfly Fuelpomp
Maintenance
MSR includes a small parts kit with the purchase of the stove, consisting of a multi-tool to disassemble the stove and pumps, a few spare O-rings and the fuel pump and flame adjuster valve, and a fuel filter. MSR also sells a maintenance kit that is universal to all of their stoves that are on the market today, and a more detailed MSR Expedition Service Kit which they recommend is performed Annually on the stove. They include a detailed instruction guide on how to clean the stove so that is working optimally. At the end of each usage, it is recommended that the user shake the stove up and down so that the Shaker pin can clean the jet from any residue that is left over from the fuel – which can happen more often than not if you are using dirty fuel. You should be able to hear the jet shaking – if not, it’s time to open up the stove by removing the flame spreader, unscrewing the jet, and flushing the stove with fuel. You can find the manual also online which is located here. O-Rings should be checked regularly as should the check valve to avoid any fuel pump malfunctions, which could obviously ruin your day, the stove and potentially burn down your entire camping area. In two years of usage, I estimate I’ve used the stove over 300 times, and have only replaced a few O-rings, and lubricated the pump cup and changed fuel filters to ensure fluid operation. A Stove Schmatic outlines all the parts available for the various generations of the stove which has undergone a design change since introduced.
Issues
Some of the most common issues with the stove is that it doesn’t perform as it does on day one. This is likely due to the jet being clogged.
Also, you may experience issues with fuel being delivered to the stove, which is likely the fuel filter is clogged, and needs to be replaced. This seems to be my most common issue with burning unleaded fuel, unfortunately MSR does not sell the fuel filters separately, so I have been forced to use the stove for periods of time without the filter, which eventually causes jams the jet – one step forwards, two steps backwards.
I’ve also experienced a failure in being able to pressurize the fuel bottle, which is due to the pump cup losing its seating on the pump arm. MSR recommends that light oil is dropped into the chamber on a regular basis, and I tend to do so after a large downpour, as my pump is always exposed to the elements. Taking off the pressure handle takes a bit of finessing, but if you look closely there is a two step guide on the arm itself.
O-Rings will fail eventually, and its a good idea to keep them lubricated again with a light mineral oil as saliva isn’t entirely the best lubricant, but works in a pinch.
Packability
Once packed up the stove collapses to a third of its size, which is small enough to fit in most cookware. If you pack the stove enough you might find the legs don’t always fold out evenly, but this doesn’t affect the stove in any way, and I’ve yet to experience any failures with the hinges. Unfolded, it’s wide enough to hold a 9 inch round pot.If you need a more stable base due to conditions such as sand or snow, MSR sells the Trillium Stove Base to provide a wider footprint.
Final Words
Other than the minor issues I’ve had with this stove, it’s performed as advertised in all sorts of conditions allowing the flexibility to melt snow, boil water, and cook gourmet meals. It’s light enough to pack along for short and long term journeys and while It may be a loud stove, but this isn’t an issue in my case due to its constant reliability. It would be nice if the legs were a bit closer to support cooking straight out of the can, but for now I’ll continue to hold the can above the flame with a potholder. MSR should also provide extra fuel filters at a reasonable cost in outdoors stores, as I have found these seem to be changed more often than anything else. Due to the ability to burn multiple types of fuel, this is a truly versatile stove that can work anywhere in the world. I’d recommend it to any backpacker, bicycle tourist, or adventurer who likes to wander off the beaten path.
The Allak uses the same integrated vestibule design as the Staika, as well as a similar 3 pole structure, but it employs ultralight materials for weight savings. The result is a two door, two vestibule tent that weighs just 3.0 kg/6 lbs 10 oz. The Allak’s three poles cross in three places, so it is sturdy enough for all season use in both exposed and/or above tree line terrain as well as protected conditions.
Because of its Kerlon 1200 outer tent fabric and 9 mm poles, it is not as stout as its Kerlon 1800 cousin, the Staika. Its exceptionally compact footprint and free standing design are ideal for tough pitching conditions, such as rocky ground and sand, and it is easily light enough for mobile journeys, where you move your camp every day. At the same time, its three pole dome structure is strong enough for some base camp use, where you leave your tent unattended, especially in moderate conditions.
Performance Attributes
The Allak’s dome design is completely free standing, and the vestibules are included in its self-supporting structure. Its innovative short pole sleeve and clip system construction, same length poles, and linked inner and outer tents make for simple and quick set up. Its design allows for a very compact footprint while maintaining interior roominess.
Ultralight materials – Kerlon 1200 outer tent fabric and 9 mm poles – combined with the three poles crossing each other in three places – make for a very lightweight yet very stable tent with excellent snow-load handling capability.
Pitching requires no pegs, but 12 peg points provide options for increasing stability: six loops, one at each pole end and six double guy lines with double line runners, one along each pole line.
Both the floor space and head room are quite spacious thanks to the three pole structure and dome design.
Two entrances and two vestibules afford tremendous convenience, flexibility and comfort. And the two vestibules are parallel to the sleeping area, so access to gear stored there is wonderfully convenient – you can even get at it while lying in your sleeping bag!
Dual entrances ensure that one door can always be situated out of the wind.
The Allak’s ventilation works regardless of weather conditions, since both the inner tent’s fabric is highly breathable, and since there are two roof vents integrated into the top of the doors. Extra sliders on the outer tent doors provide plenty of adjustment options, and the inner tent door is a no-see-um mesh panel covered with an equal sized, zipper-adjustable fabric panel. In addition, the top portion of the outer tents’ doors are made of highly air permeable yet water resistant fabric panels, so air flows freely, even when the panels are zipped closed. A separate vent cover ensures that the weather stays on the outside.
Every Hilleberg tent comes with outer tent, inner tent, guy lines with line runners, poles pegs, stuff bags for tent, poles, pegs, spare pole section, repair sleeve and instructions
"Minimum Weight" refers to the outer and inner tents and the poles only. "Packed Weight" includes all items that come with the tent.
Movie: Hilleberg Allak - Pitching instuction
Using a Firesteel
How to strike a firesteel with a bushcraft knife:-
NEVER use the cutting edge of your knife to strike a firesteel (always use the back of the blade).
The Swedish Army Firesteel is a metal alloy rod used to create sparks to ignite a wide variety of tinder materials. Its’ very simplicity has made it a firm favourite with many outdoor people as it is reliable, long lasting, is not adversely affected by water, and has no moving parts to go wrong. In the following example a piece of maya wood has been used to create the tinder.
Step 1) Preparing the tinder. Using the back of the knife blade, scrape down the length of the piece of maya wood producing a bundle of small shavings that are still attached to the piece of wood (a little like a feather stick). Then cut a small sliver of wood from the main piece with all the shavings still attached to the sliver (this helps to hold all the shavings together when using the firesteel).
Step 2) Positioning. Place the end of the firesteel on a firm surface in a position that will allow the sparks will fall onto the tinder.
Step 3) Striking. Strike downward with a hard and slow movement using the back of the knife blade. Never use the cutting edge of your knife to strike a firesteel as you are likely to completely ruin the knife. The sparks produced should ignite your prepared tinder.
Other Tinder Materials:
Birch Bark.This is probably my favourite tinder as it’s easily collected where available and works extremely well in all conditions due to the oil content of the bark.
This is a strip of birch bark torn from a dead rotting tree found lying on the forest floor. Most of the wood had disintegrated but the bark was still usable. Use the back of your knife to scrape up the surface of the bark into a pile of fine shavings.
Place the firesteel firmly on the bark and strike slow and hard down the full length of the steel with the back of your knife blade. The shavings should catch fire and set the rest of the bark alight. You can see an indication of the oil content of the bark when it’s burning by the black smoke that it gives off.
Feather Stick.This is a favourite for lighting a fire in a soaking wet forest. Make feather sticks from cut and quartered dead standing wood. Even if the wood is wet on the outside, dead standing wood will contain dry wood in the centre.
Arrange three good feather sticks so that the fine shavings are in a large pile. Strike slow and hard down the firesteel with the back of your knife so that the sparks set fire to the fine shavings.
What appealed to me most was the idea that the outer rain shell is already attached to the inner tent - and the poles are attached as an 'exoskeleton' of sorts. So that in foul weather - the inner tent is not exposed to the elements during pitching.
The tent is completely self supporting - so it can be pitched almost anywhere. The 3 aluminum poles have color coded sleeves - so that the guess work is taken away from pole placements. The inner vestibule is not huge, but large enough to handle most of your gear. You can choose between a red or green exterior - and each has a cheery yellow inner tent.
This is a 4-season tent, and I have used it in heavy cold rain. I have yet to use it in snow, but the shape and taughtness give me plenty of confidence this tent will hold up admirably.
A spare pole \ emergency repair kit is included. The vestibule does not have a floor - but the custom footprint (sold separately) does that job if that is what you need. The tent with accompanying gear weighs 4 lbs 10 oz. (2.1 kg). There is a separate kit that can be purchased that allows you to pitch the inner tent by itself, or pitch the shell only.
Higly recommended.
FEATURES of the Soulo 1 Person Tent by Hilleberg The Soulo's dome design is completely free standing, and the vestibule is included in its self-supporting structure. Its innovative short pole sleeve and clip system construction and linked inner and outer tents make for simple and quick set up. Its design allows for a very compact footprint while maintaining interior roominess.
Ultralight materials - Kerlon 1200 outer tent fabric and 9 mm poles - combined with the three poles crossing each other in three places - make for a very lightweight yet very stable tent with excellent snow-load handling capability. Pitching requires no pegs, but 12 peg points provide options for increasing stability: six loops, one at each pole end, and six double guy lines with double line runners, one along each pole line. Both the floor space and head room are quite spacious thanks to the three pole structure and dome design.
The single entrance/single vestibule configuration affords convenience, flexibility and comfort. And the vestibule is parallel to the sleeping area, so access to gear stored there is wonderfully convenient - you can even get at it while lying in your sleeping bag!
The Soulo's ventilation system functions regardless of weather conditions, since both the inner tent's fabric is highly breathable, and since there is a zipper adjustable vent above the door of the outer tent. Made from a highly air permeable yet water resistant and snow-proof fabric, the vent allows air to flow freely, even when it is zipped closed. And the vent is fully accessible from inside the tent itself, thanks to extra sliders on the inner tent door.
In addition, one entire side of the inner tent door is a no-see-um mesh panel covered with an equal sized, zipper-adjustable fabric panel. A separate vent cover ensures that the weather stays on the outside. SPECIFICATIONS: Minimum Weight: 1.7 kg / 3 lbs 12 oz Packed Weight: 2.2 kg / 4 lbs 13 oz Inner Height: 95 cm / 38 in Inner Tent Area: 2.0 m2 / 21.5
