Staying dry

Staying dry

Staying dry is important when camping or hiking at high elevations. The threat of hypothermia is always present, all the body needs to do is drop its core temperature below 35C (95F) and you could be in trouble. Even without risking hypothermia, being wet is no fun time.
BRING RAIN GEAR
 Sounds simple but a lot of people, backpackers and day hikers alike, simply don't pack rain gear. Even when the day calls for sunny skies, remember it can rain in the mountains almost anytime. A ranger in the Smoky Mountains told me it rains somewhere there every day.
 If you are day hiking or light weight backpacking bring along a wind shirt and wind pants made with EPIC fabric. EPIC fabric is super light and resists water enough that it can be used in all but the most extreme conditions. It's perfect for those fast moving afternoon thunderstorms and rain showers that last up to a few hours at a time. EPIC is not a DWR fabric but instead the fabric itself is encapsulated with silicone, making it a good wind and water blocker. Two other benefits of carrying an EPIC wind shirt and wind pants are the EPIC fabric dries quickly and can be used to stay warm in high winds even if it doesn't rain. On the downside EPIC is breathable but not as much as with other materials. 
 If you expect heavy rains, snow or extreme condensation I recommend using rain gear made with eVent. I used Gore-tex jackets and pants for over 10 years, and while Gore-tex performs well and has its definite uses in one years time I've totally become a believer in eVent. eVent sheds water more efficiently than Gore-tex leaving the garment lighter and drier feeling. I wore my eVent jacket and pants during 9 straight hours of rain and the water continued to bead up on the jacket and pants the whole time. Gore-tex by contrast seems to soak up the moisture after several hours, becoming heavy and moist feeling. eVent also breathes, blocks wind better and dries faster than Gore-tex. In the snow the fabric seems to tighten up keeping me dryer and warmer than Gore-tex. This is just from my personal experience, as always use whatever works best for your circumstances. I'm only giving suggestions, do some research, test gear and develop your own rain gear systems that fit your uses and environment.
WEAR CLOTHES THAT DRY QUICK
 This is another sort of obvious but overlooked aspect of staying dry. In summer if you do get wet (while wearing rain gear or not) and you have quick drying clothes on, when the rain quits, with the right conditions such as sun and/or wind, you can dry out in10 to 15 minutes. I wear any type of T-shirt or base layer that wicks away moisture. I also wear underwear or bottom base layers that wick moisture. In summer I prefer to wear quick drying shorts that have a sewn in net type underwear support or else I just go without. If you must wear long pants they can be found in quick drying materials too. By doing research you'll find that stuff made to dry quick comes in all sorts of weights, from light to heavy depending on the amount of heat/cold you will encounter. In winter wear DWR fabric pants or fleece pants. There are also pants made for winter that have a DWR fabric outer layer with a synthetic insulating layer like Primaloft for example. The key here is these synthetics will keep you warm when wet, are lighter when wet and dry faster when wet. You can also get a synthetic pullover insulated with Primaloft to use as a mid layer in winter. In cold conditions your shell will be keeping out the bulk of the rain/snow but if any does get through the pullover will keep you warm even when wet. The socks you wear should also be of the type that wick away moisture and if you know your going into a wet situation always carry extra socks. Wool socks will wick moisture and keep wet feet warm the best, many  wool/synthetic blends do quite well too. For wearing on your feet, trail runners and modern Gore-tex hiking boots or boots with synthetic fabrics are all made to dry quickly in the sun or wind. For example I've been able to dry my wet trail runners while wearing them on my feet just from a combination of sun and wind and from my moving around in them. This won't always necessarily work unless conditions are right; for the record it was on the first day of November and I'm not sure how well it would work further into winter. Of course when it's warm you could hike in sandals which dry quickly. Sometimes I do it based on terrain and load weight. Sandals are something to definitely think about on a creek or waterfall hike, along with the possibility of stream crossings the terrain may be quite suitable to wearing sandals .  
KEEPING YOUR SLEEPING BAG DRY
 A dry nights sleep is a good nights sleep. If you have a down sleeping bag I suggest ditching the manufacturer's stuff sack and using one that is waterproof. If you get caught in a storm with no pack cover or fall in a creek soaking your backpack your down bag will be saved. Many down bags now come with DWR fabrics for a shell. Some even use waterproof fabrics like eVent and Gore-tex, DriZone or Pertex for their shells. These water shedding or waterproof fabrics can help keep the down inside your bag from becoming wet during periods of heavy condensation inside a tent or if your staying under a tarp and catching some splash water or wind blown drops. A bivysack made from DWR or waterproof fabrics can help tarp campers keep stray water from finding its way inside a sleeping bag. I use an Oware DWR bivysack when ever I'm tarp camping, it works well against all forms of moisture including dew which accumulates practically every morning year round in the mountains here in the southeastern US.
 I recommend a synthetic sleeping bag in all seasons except the coldest months of winter. If your winters are wet or you expect to be in extreme conditions go ahead with synthetics year round. In summer I use a Mountain Hardwear Lamina 45 bag and for early spring and late fall I use the Lamina 20. Synthetic bags are easier to keep dry than down. The synthetic fabrics in a Mountain Hardwear Lamina sleeping bag will dry in the sun or wind in an hour or two (in my experience).  Its possible to lay inside a synthetic bag even if your wet or the bag is wet and the insulating properties are not compromised. You will stay warmer and drier than in a wet down bag. This subject is controversial; ask one hundred backpackers which is better down or synthetic and it will turn into a slug fest full of insults to each others intelligence. I'm just telling you my opinion based on thirty years of experience. In two years I've pushed my synthetic bags to extremes I never would do with down and now the last twenty eight years of using a down bag seem archaic to me. Remember though, in winter (December - February) I still use down, but synthetics are way ahead of down when it comes to getting and staying dry.
HOW TO GET DRY
 If it's winter always carry at least an extra baselayer in case you get wet. You'll at least be able to get warm dry clothes onto your core which is very important, then you can begin drying out the rest of your stuff if you are able. Go ahead and carry extra clothes if you want, depending on how light you want to go you can choose what extra stuff to bring. In summer for example I carry no extra clothes, just what I have on and my EPIC wind/rain shirt and pants, winter varies depending on temperatures and snow/rain outlooks. Carry a light weight but strong cord you can use as a clothesline, you can even use the same line you use to hang your bear bag in an emergency but try to have at least a four foot dedicated line for clothes or gear to dry on or use the lines on your tarp or tent to hang stuff on if they are long enough. When the rain stops you can hang all your wet gear to dry. Take advantage of a clothesline it is basically natures dryer. You can sleep with wet socks in between your bag and sleeping pad or bag and bivysack; sometimes you can put them inside the sleeping bag with yourself, but these tricks for wet socks don't always work. If some layers of your clothing get wet and you have extra layers either get out of the wet clothes and get them hanging to dry and simply change clothes, or you can put dry layers of clothing on so the wet layers are in between dry ones and then cover yourself with your sleeping bag. The heat created by your body will begin to escape and dry out your wet layers. I've used this method many times with great success. Again, this technique won't always work because conditions up to and including how wet and cold you really are will determine the actions you'll have take to dry yourself or face the possibility of things like freezing to death or simply staying up all night just plain wet and uncomfortable. Building a fire also remains a very effective way to dry out body and gear. Besides a warm sun and wind, fire is by far the best way to dry out. A fire is especially effective for drying boots and shoes. Learn to build a fire in any conditions. If you got to deal with wind, rain or snow where you're going you need to be able to build a fire in any of those conditions. Bring along more fire starting materials than the minimum, don't leave yourself short, without this essential ability you can be in trouble. Everyone should bring fire starting materials wether backpacking or day hiking.  
Good luck and stay dry!


Thermarest windscreen foor your camp stove

Thermarest windscreen foor your camp stove (and other ideas)

There is no need to buy a windscreen for your camp stove or to make your own at home. If you carry a Therma-a-Rest or any other type of sleeping pad you have all you need to make your own windscreen once you reach camp. 
 I'm going to use my Ridgerest, but any sleeping pad will do. Start out by sharpening the end of a stick and sticking it in the ground. If there are no sticks around just hold the pad, if you aren't alone two people holding, one on each end is even better.


Prop the Ridgerest (or what ever you have) against the stick so the backside of the pad faces the wind. Add another stick to the middle if the wind is strong.





If you get lucky and camp in a place that has rocks or boulders you can always build a small wind breaker. If the boulders are big enough you can cook behind them. The break from the wind can be a welcome for the hiker too.












Kelty triptease lichtline review

Kelty triptease lichtline review


The idea to replace the guy lines on my Hilleberg Akto with Kelty Triptease was mainly sparked by my desire to have guy lines that were reflective. On my first trip out with the Akto very dense February clouds covered the mountain I was camping on. Visibility and temperature both dropped rapidly. I had the right equipment to deal with the changing conditions but my tent's guy lines seemed to disappear. With such limited visibility the Akto's guy lines were extremely hard to see. Later at night, when the clouds cleared away, the guy lines were still hard to see in the dark, even with my LED headlight. Although Hilleberg's factory guy lines were outstanding from a performance standpoint for obvious reasons I simply needed guy lines that could be seen when it gets dark or when the weather turns bad.
Kelty's Triptease Lightline comes in a 50ft length (15.25m) and weighs 1oz (28.35g). The Kelty guy lines have reflective fibers weaved into the cord making them highly visible and reflective to light. The guy lines come in yellow which makes them highly visible in daylight too. Yellow also contrasts well with the Akto, which is green.
Here is a photo of the door end of the Akto with the old Hilleberg factory guy lines. The bag with the Triptease Lightline is laying in the grass in the left corner.

In the next two photos you can see how much of a higher level of visibility the Triptease guy lines have even in daylight. In the first photo the left side guy lines are Triptease and the right side are Hilleberg's factory guy lines. In the second photo both sides of the guy lines are Triptease. In the grass a bundle of Triptease cord lying next to the Hilleberg bundle stands out more.



The guy lines were no problem to replace. The Triptease Lightline tied easily, and by burning the cut ends the cord won't fray on you and come apart. Loops on the tent were easy to pass the new guy lines through and Hilleberg's factory guy line runners were easy to tie off, although I had to use a double knot to make sure the slimmer diameter Triptease Lightline wouldn't slip out from the runners.



Overall weight savings wasn't really much. For the Akto, the Hilleberg guy lines I took off weighed in at 2.5oz (70g), and the Triptease cord I used to replace the Akto guy lines with weighed in at 1.15oz (32.7g). This is only a savings of a little over an ounce (28g). One considerable benefit is this ounce of weight savings includes the addition of Triptease Lightline cord as zipper pulls. I used the left over Triptease Lightline I had to make zipper pulls for all the zippers on the Akto. The Akto comes without pulls on the zippers, so now I'll not only have pulls, but reflective pulls that make it easy to find the zips in the dark.


The First night out with the new guy lines the temperature dropped down to about 25F (-4C). The day time high had been around 52F (11C), and as I always do around night fall, I tightened and readjusted the guy lines. The wind that night was about 15-20mph (24-32kph). The next morning the Akto had some ice on it. The Kelty Triptease guy lines were just as tight as the evening before when I adjusted them. You can see from this picture I took first thing after getting up that the guy lines and the Akto are still very taut. 


At 5:30 in the morning my camera flash shows how reflective the Triptease guy lines can be. 


So far I'm happy with the performance of the Triptease Lightline. All of the guy line knots were still tight after the first night of use which means they didn't slip even with the overnight temperature change. I will continue to post on my experience with the Kelty Triptease Lightline as I encounter more situations. For now I cannot give a long term opinion on the product, but initial impressions are good.

The Triptease Lightline has solidified itself as an outstanding piece of equipment in my opinion. Since I wrote this review the Lightline on my tent has been through rainstorms, heavy winds, freezing nights, and has been used in the snow twice with no problems to report.









Flat Bread

Flat Bread



Serves 4-6
Ingredients:
  • 2 ½ Cups Flour
  • 1 Package Dry Yeast
  • 1 tsp sugar
  • 1 tsp salt
  • 4 oz Cooking Oil
At Home:
Pack one ziplock bag with 1 tsp sugar and 1 package dry yeast (unopened). In another ziplock bag pack 1 tsp salt. Pack 2 ½ cups flour in large ziplock. Pack cooking oil in a Nalgene or leak proof container.
On the Trail:
Warm up 1 cup of water. Add ½ cup of warm water to sugar baggie and then gently sprinkle in the yeast package. Try not to make any lumps. Let stand 10 minutes. Add ½ cup of warm water to salt baggie. In pot or large baggie, mix the sugar and salt water with 1 cup of the flour and mix well. Add the remaining flour and knead 10 minutes. Divide into 6 portions and flatten into ½ inch thick circles using clean water bottle. Fry in shallow pan of oil until golden.